SCAR (Smoky Mountains Challenge Adventure Run) is a route that had been on my bucket list for a long, long time. It's a 72ish mile point-to-point along the Appalachian Trail within Smoky Mountain National Park. It boasts 18,000'+ of elevation gain and has only 2 points along the way that are accessible by car. The classic route begins at Fontana Dam, on the road at the edge of the bridge and ends at Davenport Gap. It begins at about 1,700' and tops out at 6,643' at the top of Kuwohi, the highest point on the Appalachian Trail.
The remote nature of route from a driving/gear/safety perspective and the length of time in which it takes to complete meant that I needed to carve out at least 2+ days to get it done.
Finding someone to handle driving and crew logistics was a big piece of the puzzle. When I brought it up to Casey a few months ago, she immediately agreed to help out. Spending multiple days to sit at trailheads for hours is a huge ask for anyone. I definitely couldn't have done it without her and am really grateful for her sacrificing her personal time for my selfish pursuits.
Roger and I had also been discussing it and he booked a flight even without all the details being nailed down. We figured at the very least we could just go run long on a couple of days over Memorial Day weekend even if we couldn't get away for the nights.
But then it all came together when Jeff was available to help with Adam for a few nights. All of sudden, this was happening! I got my spreadsheets together and started figuring out all the details. What our projected times would be, how much food to pack, where to filter water, etc. Late May seemed like a pretty ideal time for the route, late enough that there would be little chance of snow or ice, but early enough that it wouldn't be too hot.
And wow, we got really lucky with the weather. It was mostly low humidity, chilly, and dry for the entire run. Though I haven't been feeling super fast lately, I was feeling healthy and ready to move for a long time. And it would also serve as a good training run for Eiger 250 in July. All things were pointed to having a great experience out there.
We loaded up around 1pm on Friday afternoon from my house, Roger having flown in on a red-eye that morning. After a few pits stops along the way, Casey got us to Fontana Dam just after 5pm. Roger and I finished all of our last minute preparations, i.e. filling our packs with food, slathering ourselves in anti-chafe cream, and double-checking our gear for the first 32 miles.
Casey took our picture at the edge of the dam and around 5:40pm on Friday evening, Roger and I began our journey. I felt really comfortable from the start. The weather was great, we had a few hours of daylight left, and my body felt good. We climbed out of Fontana Dam, the trail steep and relentless for many miles.
There was a good bit of chatter in the beginning between us, but it waned a bit as Roger worked to get his blood sugar stabilized. He had run a road marathon 3 weeks prior and a high elevation 100k the weekend before so despite being healthy, the cumulative fatigue caught up pretty quickly. I had been leading, but after we stopped so he could put on layers, I suggested he lead so we could just go at the pace he was comfortable with.
We donned our headlamps near sunset, the green tunnel darkening quickly as we headed into the nighttime hours. It's not as though there were too many runnable sections on the initial climb anyway, but we both agreed to just power hike once it was dark. I had a loose goal of 30 hours to finish, but it was less about pace and more about logistics (re: nutrition, water, crew access).
I started with almost 2L of water and planned to filter somewhere between miles 13-16. Because we planned to move slower and it was cool, I figured this would be enough to get me to that section. I did get a little nervous when I was running low close to where I found a place to filter! I normally use just Skratch for electrolytes, but only had a few packets left so I threw in few Liquid IV too. When I refilled at this first stop, I used the Liquid IV and regretted that choice. It was way too sugary for my liking.
I had run portions of SCAR before, but never the section between Rocky Top (mile 17ish) and Kuwohi (mile 32) so I was looking forward to covering new ground. It gave me some motivation to reach that first checkpoint in my mind.
Shortly thereafter, I started to feel really sleepy. I knew that I just had to get to about 5am and I'd start to feel better. I always struggle with endurance things in between 2am and 5am. But everything else seemed to be going well so I just grumbled about it a few times and kept going. However, the compounded fatigue Roger had accumulated caught up with him and he asked if it was okay if he took a 10 minute trail nap. I wasn't tired enough to fall asleep so I just kept an eye on the timer.
He seemed to feel better after the nap and we hiked on into first light. I was eating well all night, getting in 100 or so calories every 30 minutes between a mix of gels, bars, and real food. But our slightly slower than expected pace combined with eating well meant that I was really close to be completely out by the time we were to reach Casey again.
Once the sun started to come up, we both became more talkative again. Even though Roger had pronounced very early on that he was dropping at mile 32, I was hopeful he'd feel better when the sun came back up. He was feeling better, but not good enough to continue so I tried to enjoy having someone to talk to while I could.
In the last couple miles before meeting Casey, it was light enough to see a bear scamper away down the trail. Roger was mad that I scared it off as he wanted to take a picture of it. I was happy to not have a bear encounter.
Finally, we reached the trailhead and hiked the paved path up to the observation tower at Kuwohi.
Casey was waiting with the cooler and our drop bags. Roger confirmed he was done for the day and passed off his SPOT to me so they could track me. He got the car key from Casey and went to go get warm.
I set to work to make myself mashed potatoes using my JetBoil and began the process of packing and unpacking my vest. I left my headlamps and extra layers with Casey for the next 9 miles. I packed a few hours worth of food, refilled my flasks, ate some bacon, and chugged some Dr. Pepper.
There were a few hikers standing around near the tower and one started asking questions about how far I had gone and how far I was going. They cheered me on as I headed down the trail towards Newfound Gap.
I felt great after getting some real food in and started jogging where I could in the next section. It was nice to change up the muscles I was using and there were some decent sections in which I could run as it was a net downhill. It seemed a little daunting that I was not even halfway done yet, but I was still motivated to get it done and feeling good.
I came into Newfound Gap ahead of schedule and shocked Casey as I came through the parking lot. She set to work again, helping me get everything I needed for the final push. The next time I would see them again would be when I was finished. So I took my time to make and eat some more mashed potatoes, drink more Dr. Pepper, and pack as much real food in my vest as I could.
Leaving Newfound Gap, I was in great spirits.
I spent the next few miles passing day hikers on the stretch to the Boulevard Trail. Part of me was glad there were people around, but there was another part that was ready to just be by myself and not have to worry about asking people to step out of the way.
Eventually, the crowds thinned out and I got my wish.
I continued to feel pretty good until the late afternoon and then the sleepy feeling hit me again. I started to worry about filtering water and all the sources seemed to be just muddy sludge with no discerning source. Eventually, I came upon a spot that had a decent trickle and though it took a few minutes to fill a flask, I welcomed the break. Unfortunately, in my sleepy state, I couldn't figure out why my filter seemed to be leaking and got really frustrated. I filled up one flask and then gave up.
At this point, I decided to just lay down and see if I could fall asleep for 10 minutes. But I knew after trying to close my eyes for a minute or two that it wasn't going to happen and I was just wasting time. So I got up and pushed towards Tri-Corner Knob (mile 56), the place I had gathered enough intel on to have reliable water.
Coming into that shelter, I felt defeated. I still had so much more trail to cover and I was feeling rough. My feet were killing me and it seemed daunting how much longer I was going to be out there. At the shelter, I was grateful that 1) the water source was easy to find and fast-flowing and 2) my filter was okay, I just didn't have it screwed on tightly before. As I was filtering, a section hiker came over to get water as well and she made me feel like a million bucks as she asked me a bunch of questions about what I was doing and all things ultrarunning.
Feeling a little better due to the hiker and restocked with water, I continued on only to see one more person on the trail the entire rest of the way. I debated on putting on my headphones to see if some music would help my spirits, but decided it would be smarter to not drain my phone battery and to be fully engaged.
I was still eating pretty well, but definitely getting palate fatigue and having to chase everything solid with water to get it down. My feet were hurting more and more. I had no choice other than to continue and I was hoping that this low patch would pass.
The second half had a lot more blowdowns on the trail due to the hurricanes last fall. Everything was obviously passable in some way, but I spent a good bit of time trying to decide if I was going to climb over or under trees. With 100k on my body, neither felt very easy!
As the sun started to go down, I soaked in the last little bit of daylight. The golden hour was especially beautiful and though I knew my photos wouldn't do the scene any justice, I stopped a few times to take a few.
I dug out my headlamp eventually and then headed into the night. I was hoping that I would be able to do a least a little running in the final push as the trail is pretty much downhill in the last 6 miles. However, it was very steep and full of rocks coming off the final summit. My feet were destroyed and they felt like they were on fire. Running hurt. Walking hurt. I did feel good cardio-wise and my legs were fine. My feet were definitely the weakest link on this particular run.
Luckily, the steepness and technicality of the trail got better as I descended. I jogged a bit when I could, deciding it didn't matter since my feet hurt no matter what. As I was flipping through my watch data, I saw the battery had only about 3% left with a couple miles to go. Stupidly enough, this gave me some motivation to keep going so it didn't die before I finished. Unfortunately, in the last mile, it died and I just estimated I had less than 20 minutes to go before finishing.
At long last, I finally saw headlights come into view and jogged the final stretch to the road. I threw myself down on the dirt, relieved to finally be off my feet. Done!
Casey and Roger congratulated me while I whined about everything hurting.
Eventually, they helped me off the ground so I could change into dry, clean clothes and begin our journey back home. It had been a long couple of days for them too! We all decided that Waffle House was a good idea and made a pit stop there in the middle of the night. I thought I was starving but only picked at my food before finally giving up and crawled back into the car to finally get some sleep.
After Casey helped Roger and I in my house, I went to go put my watch on the charger and as it powered back up, I am quite certain that in my delirium that I accidentally deleted the activity. Only another runner would understand how stupidly sad I was about this. I know I did the route and not having it recorded doesn't take away from that, but I was exhausted and it bothered me beyond what I care to admit at the time.
Once I had proper sleep, food, and time, I finally had the perspective to be really happy for all the good in the adventure and laugh at all the misfortunes. I think about how silly it is that I continue to do these really hard things that sound pretty awful sometimes when I go back and reread what I was going through.
But I truly love the beautiful places I get to see and the challenge of it all. It's why I say never again, but probably again.
In my sphere of crazy runner friends, it sometimes doesn't feel as special as I've surrounded myself with people who think nothing of this kind of thing. But this one was pretty special as it had been on my list for a long time and I was highly motivated because I was happy to be finally doing it. As always, very grateful to be healthy enough to do these adventures and have really great people to share them with.